Hong Kong - world's biggest Chinatown.

I have a love-hate relationship with Hong Kong. There are things that I absolutely adore about it, but a few things that annoy me to no end. To me, it is the world’s largest Chinatown – sure, there are smatterings of real Chinese culture there, but it has been so diluted over time by western culture that it has become a theme park unto itself. A place which represents the exotic Far East (notice how whenever Hollywood needs a nefarious location in Asia, the streets of Hong Kong are typically shown?), but to me, is just a thin veneer - lacking in any real depth or soul. A town where money talks above all else.

On the other hand, there are many things to really like about this place, starting with the Airport.

I love airports. I love the feeling in them. I love the emotion in the atmosphere - the travellers embarking on an adventure of a lifetime to locations distant and foreign, the tearful farewells, and the joyous welcomes.

And of all the airports in the world, Hong Kong is my favourite by far. A modern building that cost HK$70 billion, it is a gleaming 750m long superstructure that has the traveller first and foremost in mind. How many airports can boast a fully-automated free subway in the basement that ferries passengers from one end of the terminal to the other?

Catching the Airport Express to the centre of the City is simple and straightforward too – this super futuristic system costs just HK$100 (or HK$180 return) and takes just 20 mins (compared with almost an hour by bus or taxi). Unlike the Sydney airport express, these are dedicated carriages with space for luggage, seat back entertainment, and an indicator telling you the progress of your journey.

Once at the Hong Kong station, there are free shuttle buses that take you to most of the major hotels around the tourist districts, and an efficient taxi rank for the smaller hotels. For this trip, I’m staying at the Cosmopolitan Hotel, which has its own shuttle bus that leaves every hour.

Unfortunately, my first class experience is only limited to the flights. For the rest of my journey, there is a much tighter budget for myself. Regarding hotels, I’ve placed a self-imposed budget of around AU$100 a night - quite the challenge given I’m visiting the most expensive cities in the world.

The Cosmopolitan, or Cosmo as it’s affectionately known, seems to be quite a popular hotel and with good reason. Given its location (5 minutes walk from the Times Square shopping complex) and it’s overall quality, the price is a bargain.

The rooms are nice and modern, and very clean. The only real quibble I have is the shower facilities – slightly cramped, and with those plastic curtains that try to wrap around and suffocate you when the hot water is running. The hotel also has a complimentary tour bus service that drops you off at various destinations along Hong Kong island, saving you the hassle of the walk.

But then you would miss out on the MRT system – my favourite train system in the world. In the half-dozen or so times I’ve been to Hong Kong, I’ve not had to wait more than a couple of minutes for any train on the MRT, and this trip was no exception. There are entry points to the subway everywhere, and for very reasonable fares (average price: HK$10) will take you hassle-free to most places you would want to visit. There are clear signposts in English and Chinese, and electronic indicator boards on the train that tell you where you are, where you are headed, and where to change trains. Brilliant.

So other than popping in to see some work colleagues in our Hong Kong office, the real reason I’m stopping by here for a couple of days is to experience the legendary Cathay Pacific First Lounges. Having done what I needed to (basically a shopping tour), I returned to the airport on the Airport Express.

As another example of how traveller oriented this place is, there are check-in facilities before you board the train in Hong Kong, so you can drop off your luggage 24 hours in advance of your flight – perfect for when you have an early check-out from the hotel and a very late flight.

I checked-in about 5 hours early (my flight was at 1am afterall) and made a bee-line for The Pier, one of the two Cathay Lounges. Though my next flight was with British Airways, Cathay had no problems at all allowing me in, honouring the OneWorld Alliance agreement.

Now this is what a First Class Lounge should be!

Feeling a little hungry, I stopped by at The Haven restaurant first, which is catered by the Peninsula Hotel (regarded as the best in a highly competitive Hong Kong). There was a buffet spread available with plenty of choices, and plenty of staff to ensure that you were looked after.

After sampling a little of everything, I booked a shower room to get refreshed. These are wonderfully large with great waterfall shower heads, and more toiletries than you can poke a stick at from Elemis Day Spas. Though very nice, the Cabana rooms over at The Wing (Cathay’s other lounge) are still the ultimate in relaxation.

Next stop after all that pampering was the Day room – the signature feature of this Lounge. I can only assume that most passengers don’t use this, as it took 4 staff to work out where the keys were to get in. There are 8 Day rooms available, and each are a self-contained entertainment theatre.

There is a very comfortable, very sumptuous leather chair facing an LCD screen, and a touch-screen panel to the side that controls everything from the lighting, to the TV, surround sound system and curtains. Whilst the lounge is very quiet and subdued, it is even more so in these rooms – perfect for quality relaxation time. One can get very used to this life.

With two hours to go before take-off, I reluctantly left the Pier (which closes at 11:30pm) to head to the British Airways/Qantas Lounge, which was much closer to the gate where my flight was located. This is an odd little lounge – lots of faded mismatched sofas, a tiny CRT TV in one corner, an oddly painted wall and unusual paintings on the other.

It seemed very much a smaller version of the business class lounge (that you have to pass through to get to the first class lounge), and the design statement was “I’m so rich I can flaunt a lack of taste”. Like Paris Hilton, except more trashy.

Ok, so maybe after the superlative Cathay Lounges, this is a little unfair, but I can’t see why anyone would want to use this facility if the nearby Cathay Wing is available. I don’t even know why BA/QF even bother with it, because it’s embarrassingly bad by comparison, and its passengers are free to use the Wing anyway.

With about 1 hour to the boarding call and feeling a bit peckish, I checked out the bar area. There was a selection of dehydrated vegetables (the driest carrot and celery sticks I’ve seen – and no dip), a tray of hors doerves and - in surely what must have been an oversight - fine recently opened bottles of Bollingers and Tattingers Champagne.

I settled in-front of the TV showing the National Geographic Channel with a salmon hors doerves and some apple juice.

And now for the handy traveller’s tip of the day: don’t eat seafood that hasn’t been refridgerated, no matter if it’s in a first class lounge, or how hungry you are.

Oh boy, did I feel decidedly ill after that. Curling up in a bed and getting some rest was looking very good at this point, so I was thankful to finally get the boarding call for my flight to London.