What happens when a self-confessed geek, food-lover, travel dreamer and advertising guy (all-in-one) is let loose on an unsuspecting world.

Sunday, February 12, 2006

Flying on the ground with Eurostar

Having worked on a few tourism accounts, I can definitely see that I fit into an emerging category called the "Flashpacker".

While it sounds like someone who goes around revealing a little too much behind a skimpy trenchcoat, it really comes down to a buzz-phrase called "selective extravagance". Whilst I am constantly on the lookout for the best value options, I have the desire and ability to indulge on certain activities.

It is not about having the cheapest possible holiday experience, nor the most luxurious - but saving some money in some areas, enduring some roughness, forgoing some of the niceties of travel - in exchange for a better experience, a smoother voyage, an indulgent streak in other areas deemed of more personal value.


The Eurostar train at Gard Du Nord.In this case, "First Class" (or "Leisure Select") on the Eurostar is one of the indulgences. The Eurostar is the train service that services London to Paris (plus a few other stops) via the Channel Tunnel, and reaches speeds of around 300 km/h.

As this was not part of the Round-the-World frequent flyer redemption, it meant parting with my cold hard cash. Sure, there are cheaper options, including some budget low-cost-carrier airlines, but with all the flights on this holiday, I thought it would be more interesting to have one nice rail trip.


Besides, I still managed a bargain of sorts, since the ticket was only about US$20 more than the available economy tickets available for my window of time. Sadly though, this feat would not be repeated on my return trip - where the price of the economy tickets plummetted so low (less than US$50) that saving my money for a nice meal seemed to make more sense.

Arriving at Waterloo station with an hour to go before departure, it was a much less painful procedure than checking in to an airport. Scanning my credit card in one of the automated booths, two tickets popped out (one to Paris, and one return).

There was a slight delay at the ticket gate with the security inspections holding up the line, then passed the immigration area to have the passport stamped, then you're at the terminal. Curiously, there is French border control staff in London (and British border control staff in Paris) that you must go through before the journey commences, rather than at the end.

Like a small airport, there is a crowded waiting area, some duty free shops, foreign exchange booths and food stores.


20 minutes before the scheduled departure time, passengers are allowed to start boarding the train. Unlike an airport, there is no priority gate for business/first class passengers - just a single egalitarian scrum. And a long terminal where you have to drag all your luggage with you, as there is no check-in.

The first few carriages are dedicated First class cars, with 30 passengers to each cabin. One noticeable difference between First and Economy class is that there is a dedicated cabin steward to assist with luggage and seating in First. Economy class passengers must fend for themselves (an experience I will no doubt experience later).

The so called First Class cabin on board the Eurostar.There are small luggage areas at each end of each carriage, and a star-trek like swooshing door that leads to the seating area. The seats are reminiscent of what you would see in International Economy class on a decent airline - not very spacious, but comfortable. No buttons to press, no inflight entertainment, very little recline and a pop-down tray table affixed to the seat in front. Above the seats are racks to place heavy clothing and carry-on luggage. All-in-all, not a particular premium feel to it.

The train departed on time, and was a fairly uneventful voyage for the first hour of this three hour voyage. Having no new gadgets to play with, a rather dreary view on industrial England whizzing by, and a growing hunger pang, I started getting a bit antsy. Luckily, the staff kindly provided all manner of reading material which kept me distracted for a while.

Half way through the journey - approximately noon - preparations were made for breakfast.

I've always found it an odd thing to be having breakfast at noon; regardless of what's eaten, doesn't the timing make it lunch? Or at the very least, brunch? If a poor and culinarily unskilled student has a bowl of cornflakes for dinner - that's still dinner and not breakfast, right? What is the proper etiquette with regards to the naming of meals? Or is Eurostar catering run by Hobbits, and this is 2nd breakfast (right after elevenses)?

In any case, it was a choice between cereal with milk (as well as a cereal bar), or a traditional English breakfast. Having had my fill of cereal at the Hotel for breakfast, I opted for the traditional english - which was pulled out of a metal meal holder ala economy class flight cabins.

Less food means passengers fit into the seats better. Shame it's still so tasty.The servings were tiny, but surprisingly flavoursome. Not a gourmet experience by any stretch of the imagination, but much more tasty than its rubbery appearance would indicate. I could certainly have done with a second helping, but sadly, this was not to be. The cabin stewards came around once more to serve tea & coffee, and then were not to be seen again until arrival at Gard du Nord in Paris.

Overall the journey time is around 3 hours - factor in some wait time, and the 4 hours would be comparable to the overall time required for flying. In some ways, it certainly is a much more pleasant experience than flying; the cabin is much quieter than any plane, the view is more scenic once you get to the more rural areas of England and France, and the "check-in" is smoother. And if the engine breaks down, it's more of an annoyance rather than oh-my-god-we-are-all-going-to-die catastrophe.

On the flipside, the overall service and "product" doesn't match what you'd get on a standard flight (unless European carriers are particularly bad?), but for the short duration, does that really matter? Having now experienced the Eurostar, I would certainly consider it again if the price is competitive with equivalent flights, but I would probably skip First class and opt for the much cheaper economy tickets.

This is one flashpacker who will be a bit more selective with his Eurostar extravagance in future.

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